Uruguay's Cheesemakers Sustain 165-Year Tradition
Uruguay's cheesemaking tradition began with European immigrants, primarily from Switzerland, Germany, Austria, and Alsace, who arrived in the 19th century. These settlers introduced European cheese-making techniques to the region, which, combined with local milk and conditions, led to the development of a distinctive cheese-making identity.
By 1861, the first artisanal cheese factories were established, particularly in the Colonia and San José departments. This period saw the creation of the Queso Colonia, a semi-hard cheese with characteristic holes. It was first produced by Swiss settlers and has become the most consumed cheese in Uruguay, symbolizing the country's culinary heritage.
The 20th century brought further developments with the establishment of the Instituto Nacional de Colonización in 1948, which helped rural families settle in dairy regions by regulating land access. This bolstered local production networks that continue to supply the industry today.
Several notable cheese varieties have emerged from this tradition. The Queso Yamandú, developed at the Dairy School in Colonia, became popular in the 1950s and was standardized in 1968 by Granja La Cumbre. It is known for its use in the Martín Fierro dessert. Another is the Queso Zapicán, a washed-rind cheese, and the Queso Termal, made using local bovine milk and thermal waters discovered in the 1940s.
In Canelones, both cow and sheep cheeses are produced, with notable makers including Aretxaga and Los Senderos. The tradition also extends to goat cheese, with producers such as Cerro Negro and La Chèvre Blanche contributing to the diversity.
Alejandra Cabrera of Uruguay's Ministry of Tourism highlights the importance of visiting Uruguay to experience cheeses like Queso Colonia and the Provolone, which is traditionally cooked on a grill. The Chester cheese from Granja La Cumbre, based on a recipe dating back to 1921, exemplifies the preservation of family traditions.
Today, the approximately 800 cheesemakers in Uruguay maintain the techniques and recipes passed down through generations, preserving one of the country's oldest gastronomic traditions.
