Artisan Cheese Production Thrives in Minas Gerais Despite Modern Challenges

In the scenic landscape of Minas Gerais, Brazil, a cheese factory founded 48 years ago by Jair, a 78-year-old artisan, continues to draw attention for its traditional methods and award-winning products. Located in the Serra do Condado, the factory utilizes water from a local spring, which is considered by Jair to be the most valuable resource of the area. This water travels approximately 800 meters through a pipe to supply both the factory and his home.

The key to Jair's renowned cheese lies in the use of 'pingo,' a natural ferment derived from the cheese itself. Jair uses about 4% of this ferment for every 100 liters of milk, claiming that it is the 'true cheesemaker.' The process involves pre-cooking the cheese mass at around 45°C, a technique he has maintained for decades. Jair emphasizes the importance of gently breaking the cheese mass to retain the fat, distinguishing ordinary cheese from prize-winning varieties.

Jair's factory produces a diverse range of cheeses, including 1 kg, 500 g, and 5 kg varieties, as well as smoked versions and unique creations like the 'black egg,' which he introduced in 2023. For smoking, he uses sawdust from eucalyptus trees grown on his property. Some cheeses undergo long maturation, with certain pieces aging up to two years, developing a dark rind and white mold.

Since beginning to compete in cheese contests in 2021, Jair has amassed several gold and silver medals. His products have been recognized in one of the country's most competitive cheese competitions, featuring thousands of entries and numerous judges. The factory has also become a tourist attraction, drawing thousands of visitors over the years, some of whom find him through online platforms and social media.

Jair's journey into cheese making began in his youth, learning the craft from his father, who operated two cheese factories in the region. Today, Jair's son, Fábio, assists with the operations and is building his own house nearby, ensuring the continuation of the family's cheese-making legacy.

Despite the challenges faced throughout the years, Jair remains committed to his craft and life in the mountains. He recalls the hardships of the past, such as the long distances for basic necessities and a significant accident that left him with a hand injury. Nevertheless, his passion for cheese making and his dedication to the artisanal process have remained unwavering.