Strafford family keeps Vermont dairy farm operating

Rockbottom Farm has about 140 cattle in total, with milking carried out twice daily, at 4am and 4pm. The farm currently milks 60 cows. Mr Ransom’s parents established the operation in 1979, and he and Ms Huyffer assumed control in the early 2000s.

The couple opened Strafford Organic Creamery in 2001. It bottles hundreds of gallons of organic milk and makes seasonal products, including ice cream and eggnog, at the farm. Ms Huyffer said the process begins with well-managed land that supplies high-quality feed, while healthy and comfortable cows produce milk suitable for bottled products and ice cream.

The farm follows an organic approach to managing its land and does not use herbicides, pesticides or chemical fertilisers. Mr Ransom said the work itself had not changed substantially, but the local dairy landscape had: when he was growing up, most of the neighbouring farms kept cattle for milk, whereas Strafford Organic Creamery is now the town’s only remaining dairy farm.

The operation has retained a relatively small scale. Seventy-three per cent of Vermont dairy farms have fewer than 200 cows, and Mr Ransom said the farm’s size enabled the family to concentrate on flavour and quality. The creamery was established to make products that would stand out on those characteristics.

Passing the farm to the next generation is another issue. Mr Ransom said his 23-year-old son is expected eventually to take over, but will need to adapt to market conditions, land prices and taxes, as well as to changes in the climate. He described the ability to change course when necessary as important for the farm’s future.

The business also relies on agricultural labour during a period of increased immigration enforcement. Migrant and undocumented workers account for a large share of Vermont’s farm workforce, according to the report. Marya Merriam, who works at the farm, said farm work was necessary to maintain the food supply, rewarding despite being difficult, and insufficiently paid and appreciated.

Ms Huyffer said the family was working to maintain Vermont’s dairy tradition. She said that dealing with difficulties builds the capacity needed to meet them.