Martín Berasategui says good mozzarella should smell milky
Mozzarella is used in pizzas, salads, pasta and other dishes, but its quality can vary. Berasategui identifies aroma as one of the first ways to assess the cheese, alongside its appearance and texture.
In his book Cocina con garrote, the chef says mozzarella should smell of “fresh milk, butter, yoghurt and cream”. He adds that these notes should be present softly, “without offending our sense of smell”. Fresh mozzarella may also have a light acidity reminiscent of yoghurt, while strong, rancid or otherwise unpleasant odours are not expected.
Fresh mozzarella is normally sold in a preserving liquid. The liquid helps the cheese retain its moisture and characteristic texture, so it should not be discarded immediately if the whole piece will not be eaten. Cheese left outside the liquid for too long can lose moisture, become drier on the surface and change in texture.
Not all mozzarella is made from buffalo milk. Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP is produced exclusively from buffalo milk and is protected by a European designation of origin. Mozzarella made from cow’s milk is also widely used, including in fresh products and pizzas. In Italy, the term fior di latte is used for certain cow’s-milk mozzarellas. The milk used affects the cheese’s flavour, composition, moisture and final texture.
A fresh mozzarella should feel moist, elastic and tender rather than excessively rubbery. When cut, it may release a small amount of liquid, and its centre should retain a fresh appearance. Its flavour should be clean and milky, with moderate acidity and no bitter or rancid notes.
The suitable type also depends on the dish. High-moisture fresh mozzarella is commonly used in salads, cold preparations and pizzas cooked quickly. For pizzas that spend longer in the oven, varieties with less moisture are used because they release less water onto the dough while melting. Berasategui’s criteria therefore focus on a subtle milky aroma, appropriate moisture and proper storage rather than on one variety for every preparation.
