British Territorial Cheeses: A Taste of Tradition at Risk

As their name suggests, British territorial cheeses like crumbly Lancashire and nettle-wrapped Cornish Yarg have a distinct connection to their regions of origin, shaped by the unique geography and climate. In the modern era of industrialised food production, these cheeses represent a living history, crafted using age-old methods and recipes.

However, as farmers across the globe confront various challenges, the survival of these unique cheeses hinges on the support of consumers. Neal’s Yard Dairy underscores this sentiment with its "Eat Them or Lose Them" campaign. As part of this initiative, the cheesemonger has curated a Territorial selection box priced at £70, featuring five varieties of cheese (Appleby’s Cheshire, Cotherstone, Gorwydd Caerphilly, Kirkham’s Lancashire, and Yoredale Wensleydale) plus two bottles of porter.

According to Thea Everett, involved in developing recipes for the campaign, "They can do everything Cheddar can do when you cook with them, but are much more interesting and complex." British territorial cheeses are noted for their acidity and tangy, yoghurt-like flavor, complementing ingredients like sweet summer vegetables. With their high moisture content, these cheeses melt beautifully, offering a chewy texture with crispy edges.

Everett points out that cheese should be considered a main ingredient, akin to selecting a specific cut of meat, rather than an afterthought in cooking.