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From Farm to Table: How Sustainable Practices Shape the Flavors of Pennsylvania’s Artisanal Cheese

USA 06.11.2024
Source: DairyNews.today
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In Philadelphia’s trendy Fishtown neighborhood, where culinary innovation merges with craftsmanship, dairy farmer and cheese artisan Sue Miller delivers her renowned Red Cat cheese to Pizzeria Beddia. Known for its open kitchen and industrial-chic aesthetic, the restaurant proudly features Miller's cheeses on its menu.
From Farm to Table: How Sustainable Practices Shape the Flavors of Pennsylvania’s Artisanal Cheese
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Sue Miller has dedicated nearly 15 years to crafting artisanal cheeses at Birchrun Hills Farm, the family’s 80-cow dairy operation in Chester County, Pennsylvania. Using milk exclusively from her Holstein cows, Miller’s cheeses are designated as “farmstead” — made by hand on-site from her own herd’s milk, a hallmark of sustainable farming and artisan production.

“Sustainability starts from the ground up, quite literally,” Miller explains. “The soil’s health impacts every part of the process, from the feed grown for our cows to the cheese we produce.” For the Miller family, soil care is fundamental. They use crop rotation, contour planting, and minimal tilling to maintain soil health and reduce erosion.

The Miller family’s holistic approach integrates soil health, cow welfare, and community values. Sue’s husband, Ken, and sons, Randy and Jesse, prioritize animal care and environmental stewardship, while Sue continues to refine her cheesemaking techniques. Randy and Jesse, both Dairy Science graduates from Cornell, bring advanced knowledge to their family’s operations.

“Our cows provide exceptional milk, which we turn into nutritious cheeses,” says Miller. “It’s a beautiful cycle — from soil to feed, milk, and finally, cheese. Each wedge is a testament to the effort we pour into this process.”

At Pizzeria Beddia, which consistently ranks among the best pizza establishments in the U.S., owner Joe Beddia values Miller’s sustainable philosophy. Sitting with Miller to sample dishes featuring local cheeses, Beddia emphasizes his commitment to sourcing ingredients responsibly. "If you take as much care with the dough, every ingredient on top should matter just as much,” Beddia says, highlighting the importance of local ingredients for flavor and sustainability.

For Sue Miller, each cheese that makes its way from Birchrun Hills to tables around Pennsylvania tells a story of dedication to environmental responsibility, quality, and the community. “Our cheeses are part of a broader connection,” Miller reflects. “Behind every wedge is a farm, a family, and a commitment to craftsmanship. We’re proud to be our community’s cheesemakers.”

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